The Dyurrite Cultural Landscape Management Plan Amendment doesn’t actually list what climbing areas and routes it is closing. It’s clever like that. It only lists the “designated” climbing areas – and pretends all the other stuff simply doesn’t exist.
Here at SGC we are publishing a list of the classic areas and iconic routes that the Labor Allan Government, Parks Victoria and BGLC doesn’t want to talk about. This list includes famous routes such as the world’s first grade 32 – Punks in the Gym, the best super easy route on the planet Tiptoe Ridge (5) and even Kachoong (21) – the hugely popular roof route that made Arapiles famous.
Parks Victoria advises people to stay off these areas now according to the Engage Victoria website and one of the presenters of the Engage Victoria webnair (19min20sec). This is more a request rather than a formal ban – which is likely to come into place when the Plan of Management comes into force next year. In the FAQ section of the the Engage Vic website it states that.
Maths does not lie
A detailed spreadsheet has been created putting all of Arapiles routes into each relevant category. So what does the math show? Right now – December 2024 – there is an informal ban on 62% of rock climbing routes at Arapiles.
| Areas | Climb # | % of total | Metres | |
| Banned for all time | 127 | 1810 | 54% | 41,871m |
| Banned now but may be reopened * | 16 | 281 | 8% | 9,723m |
| Banned apart from LTOs ** | 1 | 14 | 0.4% | 148m |
| Banned combined | 144 | 2105 | 62% | 51,742m |
| Open | 66 | 1215 | 38% | 32,148m |
* (M) Management required – A section of this climbing area may reopen for climbing as soon as on ground actions have been implemented that may include signs, access track work and changes to some routes to protect nearby heritage (i.e. that means specific route bans). There is no guarantee these areas will reopen – as stated in the Engage Victoria webinar in November “there is no guarantee that all 15 of these areas will reopen.” “There will be a way to reopen some of those areas. We need to do that work now to identity what that will look like”
** This area will only be available to Licensed Tour Operators (commercial guided groups) – if you are a member of the public just wanting to go climb here then you are not allowed.
Why is Arapiles special?
“The most loved and known, easily accessible quality crag in the land.” -thecrag.com
- Thousands of world-class routes within walking distance of the campground.
- Exceptional rock quality – orange quartize is hard and covered in finger friendly holds
- 99% of routes do not require permanent safety bolts. Removable trad(itional) gear (nuts, cams) is the way most Arapiles routes are climbed.
- Arapiles is at the center of Australia’s climbing history and home to many of the first routes of the grade climbed in the world and Australia. To climb at Arapiles is to climb in the footsteps of giants.
- The cliffs are an international melting pot of climbers who travel there as one of the worlds climbing “meccas”.
- Cheap and simple life in the campground. One of the attractions of the area is the lack of infrastructure and formality.
- Arapiles has the world’s best beginner routes due to the incredible featured rock and easy to place protection.
- Excellent climate where you can climb 12 months of the year.
Banned – the list
The following photo essay and stats gives a taster on what is on the banned list for Arapiles. This is a depressing read for any climber – this is the worlds biggest climbing ban in visual form. This is not an exhaustive list by any stretch of the imagination – with 144 climbing areas banned it would take hundred of pages to publish all that is to be lost. We have just picked a handful of the iconic routes and walls. We will update this document with more info over the coming weeks.
Uncle Charlie
Home of the hardest routes at Arapiles featuring classic orange “bum” holds. Some of the best quality rock on the planet.
Status: Banned
38 routes
Punks in the Gym (32)
The world’s first grade 32 – and the most famous climb in Australia. An extreme sequence of rounded holds up a mind blowing wall makes this a true international drawcard.
India/Ethiopia (28/30)
A proud line up the front of the overhung face. One of Kim Carrigan’s finest routes and an incredible effort for 1984.
Spasm in a Chasm (25)
Tucked away in a shady gully but awesome steep climbing. One of the more “sporty” routes at this grade at Araps.
Castle Crag
Pillar with four sides of fun and climber-only summit.
Status: Banned
35 routes
Procol Harum (26)
Australia’s first grade 26 climbed in 1978 by Kim Carrigan. Steep and slippery!
Undertaker (25)
Australia’s first grade 25 and still a tough challenge today.
Trapeze (11)
Remarkably easy way to gain the summit of this cool pinnacle. And then abseil off the top!
Tiger Wall
The biggest and widest wall at Arapiles towers above the plains below. As you launch up one of the classics you will experience just how steep and exposed an “easy” grade can be. There is nothing like it in Oz.
Status: Banned
128 routes
Syrnix (10) – At 170m tall there is a good chance you will be on this incredible 7 pitch journey for most of the day.
Resignation (15) – Fancy climbing a roof on trad three pitches up at grade 15? This is the climb for you! Memorable does not do this route justice.
No Future (21) – A tricky single pitch at the base of the epic Tiger Wall.
The Pharos
Incredible giant pillar with a myriad of easy multi-pitch routes and some harder stuff tucked up the back in the shade. Considered one of the finest pieces of climbing in Australia with numerous three star routes.
Status: Banned
92 routes
Spiral Staircase (8)
A wonderful beginner multi-pitch to the best summit at Arapiles.
Lamplighter (14)
Airy traverse that will test your nerves.
Oceanoid (17)
A line of huge overlapping features requires a cool head.
The Second Coming (22)
A bold adventure up a steep wall with spaced trad gear. Remarkable rock quality.
Trojan (25)
Splitter overhung crack that fades away to technical fiddly seam. Absolute classic.
Mind Arthritis (27)
Wildly exposed face route.
Slopin’ Sleazin’ (28)
A Mike Law classic of funk. Very popular.
Yesterday Gully
A hidden gem packed full of awesome trad routes. Lots of quality in the 20 to 26 grades.
Status: Banned
106 routes
Ethereal (20) – Steep start then subtle balance up a gorgeous face. Only Arapiles does routes like this.
Milk Blood (23) – A unique finger crack – it’s short but challenging.
Yesterday (26) – Bullet hard rock and moves. A route of pure class and many climbers first 26 – not because it’s easy – it’s just that good.
The Pinnacle Face
Spectacular multi-pitch routes at very easy grades. This is what makes Arapiles the best place in the world for beginners wanting to climb bigger things.
Status: Banned
52 routes
Tiptoe Ridge (5) – The world’s best introduction to multi-pitch routes. Has been climbed by kindergarten kids and great grandmas. It’s a total classic must do.
Siren (9) – The second route climbed at Mt Arapiles way back in 1963. Still a brilliant adventure up a long juggy wall.
Mitre Rock
An island of rock away from the rest of Arapiles offering easy routes, and all day sun or shade depending on your mood.
127 routes
Exodus (6) – The perfect place to learn the art of trad climbing.
Guiding Light (6) – It’s rare to find routes of this quality at this grade. This is why Arapiles is known as the world’s best easy crag.
Serpent (11) – cool and slippery corners. Just another fine bit of rock.
Pilot Error Cliff
A complex collection of gullies, walls and ledges – conveniently close to the campground.
63 routes
Status: Banned
Pilot Error (20) – The roof dangling photo route if Kachoong is all a bit hard.
Debutantes and Centipedes (25) – an arete of remarkable rock with some great incut pockets.
Cobwebs (28) – Hidden away but epic none the less. This would have been one of the hardest routes in the world when first climbed by Mark Morehead in 1981.
Declaration Crag
Once a super popular roadside crag suitable for mobility impaired climbers. Has some great beginner routes with easy access to the summit for topropes.
Status: Banned
49 routes
Hammer (4) – super easy super fun. Perfect introduction to rock climbing.
Little Thor (20) – an exciting corner crack on impeccable rock. A test piece if you are breaking out of the teen grades.
Steps Ahead (29) – they don’t make them like this anymore – very thin crimping in true ’80s style.
Colosseum Wall
Splitter cracks are rare at Arapiles and this wall is where to find them.
Status: Banned
27 routes
Christian Crack (20) – Sustained and highly technical crack climbing. It’s short but packs it in.
The Rack (18) – where sport climbers come to fail. Jam or flail up this perfect handcrack.
New Image Wall
Perfect orange rock makes for great wall climbing in the low grade 20s.
Status: Banned
16 routes
New Image (20) – Weaves up a bolt-free wall with your typical bomber Arapiles trad whittled into hidden slots.
Banned now but may be reopened in the future – maybe
Kachoong
It doesn’t get more iconic than this steep wall set high up on the cliffline. Steep is the name of the game here. Getting a postcard photo at the end of your Arapiles trip from this crag is a long held tradition.
Status: Banned now – but may reopen
34 routes
Kachoong (21) – the most photographed climb in Australia and an incredibly speculator route at the grade.
A Taste of Honey (21) – The sister route to Kachoong and Henry Barber classic from the ’70s. Don’t fall off on the traverse – especially on 2nd!
The Bluffs
Perched way above Tiger Wall – this is a series of massive cube shaped blocks with fantastic climbing on all four sides. The extra exposure from being perched 100m above the plains adds spice to even the easiest route here. There are so many classics up here it is hard to narrow down to half a dozen.
Status: Banned now – but may reopen
115 routes
Blockbuster (11) – Major groove feature up the middle of the proudest bit of rock at Arapiles. The exposure will make this feel ten grades harder!
Missing (17) – Don’t let the easy grade fool you – this is exceptional bold wall climbing on small fiddly wires.
Thunder Crack (20) – A big proud crackline with a fiendish bouldery start.
Scorpion Corner (22) – Fantastic overhung corner with bomber gear.
Despatched (23) – A committing diagonal traverse across a huge face that feels almost as scary to second as to lead.
Anxiety Neurosis (26) – Very steep and photogenic – especially if you whip off!
Final Departure (27) – Another Kim Carrigan masterpiece up a steep wall.
Bard Buttress
A striking detached buttress standing tall and obvious above the campground. Getting down off the top is half the fun – through a series of tunnels and scrambles.
Status: Banned now – but may reopen
25 routes
Bard (12) – was once the most popular multi-pitch in Victoria. Slick and wandery – it tackles an impressive steep wall for such an easy grade. Every pitch is unique in style.
Eurydice (18) – A strong crackline with an old-school feel. Would have felt epic in the early ’60s when it was first climbed.
What have we missed?
On the permanent ban list there is also Skyline Walls, Plaque Area and all of the Western Side. There are plenty more.
On the banned now, may reopen in the future list we have Muldoon area, Fang Buttress, Left Side of Watchtower Face and D-Minor Pinnacle. And that is not a comprehensive list.
Please send a submission in to Parks Victoria about these bans. We have until 14 February.
There is plenty of other ways you can help – check out our page here for idea. Writing to politicians of all stripes is working – we strongly suggest you do that.
Save Grampians Climbing 
Excellent article but depressing.
Please use “Maths” and not “Math”. We are not part of the United States yet.
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done!
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