Parks Victoria announces “re-opening” of 18 crags and “more than 500 routes” in the Grampians.
Actual number of routes to be re-opened is 432 – 15% less than PV claim.
The routes being open equate to less than 5% of the total climbing in the Grampians.
Many of the “re-opened” crags are the lowest quality climbing areas in the Grampians – with some having had zero repeats in 40 years according to thecrag.com
9 crags failed this round of the assessments due to the presence, or potential presence, of Aboriginal cultural heritage.
Major crags failed their assessment without a physical site assessment even happening.
Closed crags include popular moderate sport crags Weirs Creek, Wave Wall and Red Rock Pinnacles.
UPDATE: This article has been majorly updated since first published on Thursday 29 May after additional information was published by PV and Climbing Victoria on Tuesday 3 June.What a surprise – they withheld the negatives of their announcement until after it hit the press.
Have you read the press release from Climbing Victoria and Parks Victoria about an additional 18 areas and “over 500 routes” being re-opened to climbers in the Grampians? Did you look at the list of climbing areas and not recognize most of them? You are not alone!
According to the Australian online climbing logbook thecrag.com – the reopened crags contain only 432 routes – not “more than 500” as claimed by Parks Victoria. Even if we only use the figure of 500 routes that is a 15% inflation over the actual figure. What gives?
Mediocre crags in the Grampians “re-opened”
Only an experienced Grampians climber will immediately see why there isn’t great big whoops of joy on what has “re-opened”. The list of areas is far from an inspiring collection of classic crags containing iconic routes. There are around 6 middle of the road good crags listed – Dreamtime, Centurion, Cave Cliff, Barbican and Gallery Creek. The remaining deserve a special mention as they are so bad…
Three of these 18 “reopened” areas have received zero ascents in the last couple of decades according to thecrag.com. Another 7 of these areas have received less than 100 ascents. Five of these “areas” are tiny pimples of rock that contain less than ten routes. Five crags are mediocre at best and are situated in the heart of Halls Gap within walking distance of the Parks Victoria office (they can be back for lunch after spending the morning banning a bunch of crags!). We have it on good advice that PV threw in assessing these Halls Gap crags as a “bonus” for the climbing community – we’re sure they still filled in those timesheets at the end of the day. A couple of re-opened “areas” are simply one piece of cliff line with names for each sectors – they are not even unique climbing areas!
Get psyched for the Labour Ward super crag!
4.6% re-opened
This re-opening announcement has only added a minuscule 4.6% of total Grampians climbs to the already threadbare “open” list. These 18 newly “designated” areas equate to only 3.7% of total climber ascent activity in the Grampians according to the thecrag.com. These re-opened crags are not only small and obscure – they are generally really unpopular.
Sport climbers can rejoice – 13% more open!
Sorry for getting your hopes up. How did sport climbers fare? The majority of the original bans in the Grampians targeted the harder and spectacular caves and walls that made the region famous – such as Muline, Gallery, Taipan, Millennium (RIP) and many others. The best rock and routes on the planet. These “reopened” areas bring around 13% of additional sport routes into play – but if you look at the details you realize most of these are sub grade 20 routes on poor quality grey or blocky rock around Halls Gap – not the magic orange everyone wants to climb. A two bolt grade 10 slab route at the Labor Ward is hardly a replacement for Invisible Fist at Taipan Wall. It’s better than a rock to the head – but not exactly a time to celebrate. Even worse – we have confirmation that some of the best moderate sport crags in the Grampians – Weirs Creek, Wave Wall and Red Rock Pinnacles all “failed” their assessments – more about that later…
Did Parks Victoria and First Peoples State Relations really send a highly paid assessment team on a one hour bush bash up a big hill in deepest darkest Victoria Ranges to assess a cliff such as Dead Explorers Slab – which contains only 3 trad routes (all under grade 13) that have had exactly zero ascents in 20 years? At the same time we have heard zilch about any assessments of world class climbing areas such as Eureka Wall, Muline, Asses Ear and Mt Fox? These assessments continue to baffle logically minded climbers who want certainty on crags that climbers actually visit – and international climbers used to flock to.
The Grampians have over 9200 recorded rock climbing routes and boulder problems – but Parks Victoria still believes they can keep climbers away from 80% of these. An additional 4.6% does nothing to allay the deep concerns that climbers have about the bans and the future of the climbing in Victoria.
Crags that failed assessment
One line from the glowing press-release is worth mentioning “Parks Victoria has assessed 27 climbing areas in the Grampians (Gariwerd) National Park and are reopening 18.” That means that there are 9 areas that were assessed – but didn’t “pass” and are now presumably closed to climbing. What are those areas? According to Climbing Victoria’s Facebook post on Tuesday...
The loss of super pocketed moderates at Weirs Creek and the insanely popular Wave Wall will put even more pressure on the already busy moderate sport crags of I Forget Walls and West Flank. Neither of these newly banned crags are caves so we have no idea what “cultural heritage” value is present and why it took until 2025 to notice it. Both crags are over 20 years old for climbing activity.
Eagles Head is a big loss as well as it is a massive area – similar to the geography of Arapiles it has multiple tiers, gullies and faces. Banning the entire area seems extreme – but we have seen similar attempts at Arapiles to close major areas due to the the very limited presence of cultural heritage right at the cliff base. Eagles Head has never been popular – but it’s always been a place to “get away” from the mainstream crags and have a proper 1980s style trad adventure. Tights camera action! Historical impact from climbers has always been negligible at Eagles Head. With the loss of so many similar areas at Arapiles this is a crippling blow to the future climbing community.
Eagles Head contains 77 routes over a huge area. The “Summit Crags” represent 3 of the supposedly “reopened” areas, yet no climbers go there. The rest of Eagles Head consists of at least 7 named walls. So does that mean 7 crags banned? PV consider it just one, with 3 opened.
Failure to assess
We note the contradiction in public statements from Climbing Victoria that “Parks Victoria has assessed 27 climbing areas in the Grampians (Gariwerd) National Park and are reopening 18.”
They actually did not assess at least 5 areas of the 27. They just wrote them off on paper without actually checking them out in person.
The failure of Group 2 crags to even be individually assessed because they are simply located in huge Special Protection Areas (SPAs) is of greatest concern to us. These areas were popular and famous climbing areas for over 40 years – and featured in numerous print guidebooks. Now they are deemed so culturally “valuable” that even considering an assessment to continue a long utilized recreational activity is deemed impossible.
A complete ban on Mt Difficult for this reason is laughable – as PV hacked the massive Grampians Peak Trail straight through this area only a few years ago – including massive stone steps carved directly into the cliff. Yet a couple of bolts and a faint foot pad is criminal? Give us a break.
How are the crags being chosen?
Where did the list of areas to be assessed come from and when? It was actually a list of 50 priority areas that was presented to Parks Victoria back in May 2022 by the Victorian climbing community (through the now defunct CVAC – Climbing Victoria Advisory Council). According to this news report Parks Victoria accepted this list “and has agreed to assess them in the 2022/23 financial year. The aim is to complete the assessments and determine which sites will be designated as climbing areas or non-climbing areas by May 2023.” For those viewing this in a parallel universe without the bans – that deadline flew past us 2 years ago. Oops. So two years late and Parks Victoria have only attempted to assess less than half the 50 crags on the priority areas list.
We now have a generation of climbers who simply do not know about what the best Grampians climbing crags are because “assessment” of these areas has dragged on for more than half a decade (and multiple Parks Victoria CEOs). What ever happened about those climber permits? When will the general public be allowed back to Summerday Valley? When will PV put aside real funds to stabilize the bottom of Spurt Wall? Maybe it’s best we just leave PV and their cronies to play with paperwork while we just go climbing.
Thanks should go out to all the organizations and individuals that have lobbied hard to get areas reopened over many years. We have all done it slightly differently in our own unique way but the pressure has been immense and mostly unwavering. Keep it up all. This announcement claws back a tiny fraction of the overall losses but does give some hope that one day this will all be distant memory.
The all important 4th document – the Cultural Heritage survey – remains blocked from the general public’s access.
Documents confirm that climbing historical usage and positive influence on the regional community was not considered into decision making around climbing bans.
Resourcing and budget restraints to “manage” climbing areas will mean climbing bans occur automatically
All public access and use rights at Arapiles should be understood as “temporary” according to documents
Any new climbing development is labeled as “colonialism” by Traditional Owners and is not acceptable.
All climbing to be banned if “near” tangible and intangible cultural heritage. No definition of “near” is given.
The sounds climbers make are defined as unacceptable to Traditional Owners use of the area and a reason given to ban specific climbing areas. Shhhhh.
No other user group is targeted with such draconian surveys and restrictions.
You have until February 14th to submit a response to Park Victoria’s plan to close more than half of the climbing at Arapiles. Please make sure you send in your submission – your voice counts. We have momentum for change but need the community’s support to get this over the line.
The release of three key documents by Parks Victoria in the last couple of days has shone new light on the “decolonisation” mindset within the organization when it comes to the climbing community’s use of Arapiles.
Decisions decisions – how to ban climbing.
For this article we are going to focus mostly on the 2021 Decision Framework as this document best explains how we got to the situation where Parks Victoria has ended up with a proposal to ban more than 60% of the rock climbing at Arapiles (thousands of climbs) and put the regional Wimmera community of Natimuk into financial jeopardy. At only 10 pages it’s not a particularly long document and worth downloading and reading. We will delve into the flora and environmental surveys in future articles.
The Decision Framework document is labeled mysteriously “sensitive” – presumably because the contents didn’t align with what PV and the Labor Allen government wanted to project to the public (remember the win-win press release they issued – Climbing and cultural wonder of Dyurrite secured – yere that didn’t end well did it?). Why did it take until now for it to be released – 4 years after it was written? It was never shown to Climbing Victoria or other climbing organizations that had regular meetings with Parks Victoria specifically about concerns with upcoming Arapiles climbing bans.
The fact they waited until now to quietly release it shows the government was either embarrassed by its contents (it hasn’t aged well in the political climate) or was deceitful in hiding it knowing full well the implications it would have on the communities response to the proposed plan. With Park Victoria’s CEO and board fired, temporary management and budget cuts the the release of these documents could either be a cry for help from within or a reluctant FOI release after persistent attempts by various members of the climber community to get hold of them. There is only a couple of weeks before submissions close at Engage Victoria. Let’s rip this document to shreds shall we?
Mitre Rock – to be banned in 2025
It’s all about rock-climbing stupid
Although the Decision Framework document is titled with the generic sounding “Dyurrite Cultural Landscape Decision Framework: principles and process” it singles out rock climbing as the problem that needs to be cured. There is no mention of other user groups such as walkers, general tourists, cyclists, high-liners etc who could easily have a similar minor impact on the ecology and cultural heritage of the area.
The objective briefed to the Flora survey also “targeted” rock climbers – with the summary of that document clearing stating…
“The objective of the current assessment was to undertake targeted surveys for threatened plants, focusing on areas used for rock climbing activities. [snip] The conservation and statutory risk to threatened species has been assessed with a focus on potential impacts from rock climbing activities.”
This means that the study only targeted high use climbing and walking areas (except one small area of low use climbing). The Flora report would have more reliable data if a comparison had been made for rare and threatened plants in the acres of rock where climbers do not frequent (“low use” or “no use”).
But regardless, the report itself states: ‘There was no clear pattern between the level of rock-climbing use and the distribution of threatened plants.’
and
“The cause and effect implied is not able to be determined with the few observations made, and the correlation may be coincidental.”
The report is a good snapshot of what is located in climbing areas, but it cannot be used to assess the impacts of any potentially threatening process (including rockclimbing). Your tax paying dollars at work.
Decision makers
Back to the Decision Framework and who is responsible for brewing up trouble…
“Parks Victoria and Barengi Gadjin Land Council are working together to undertake a project in 2020-21 to assess and evaluate defined rock climbing areas in Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park. The assessment of cultural and natural values within these areas will provide an evidence base to inform decisions regarding future climbing opportunities. This document establishes the framework for how these decisions will be made.” – p.1
That makes it crystal clear BGLC is working directly with Parks Victoria on how to close rock climbing areas. Don’t get distracted by calls that they merely “assessed” the area and someone higher up in State land made the bans. The very methodology on how to ban climbing was cooked by these two organizations in this document without input from the climbing community or anyone in Natimuk or the Horsham LGA. This is how they operate – oversight not required. The document routinely refers to Traditional Owners who we can only assume is BGLC – it is doubtful they asked anyone else as there has been alleged confusion amongst outsiders of BGLC in the local Aboriginal community on these climbing bans. The document clearly states that climbing access will only be allowed at each area with the approval of Traditional Owners (p.4).
Precautionary approach
“The future regulation of rock climbing is proposed to be based on an approach of ‘designated climbing areas’. Climbing would be prohibited across the park except within Designated Climbing Areas in accordance with specified conditions. The approach is consistent with the overarching and management principles and provides a precautionary regime based on the evidence of values and risk.” – p.1
More commonly known as ban first, ask questions later. This is the same system they introduced into the Grampians in 2021 and likely to be coming to every climbing area in Victoria soon. Unless Parks Victoria can drum up resources to “assess” and “manage” an area in detail they will ban the public’s access to it. This is the future of National Parks in the State. They fear what they don’t know. It’s also really simplifies their work.
“Under the proposed management approach of designated climbing areas, the setting aside of discrete specific areas to exclude climbing would become redundant. Instead, climbing would be prohibited broadly across the park via set-aside determinations, except within a designated climbing area and in accordance with specified conditions.” – p.9
This entire area, once a popular area for outdoor education, has been shut as a “precaution” since 2020.
All public access and use rights should be understood as “temporary”
It says it right there on page 4. No one should be under any illusion otherwise. This is what the “land managers” tell us. Public access to public land is being eroded – with the very existence of “public” land changing to ownership by Corporations with their own internal agendas. Read our previous article here about that.
Tangible or Intangible – it’s all banned automatically
On page 5 we get some solid information on what triggers a climbing area ban because of Aboriginal cultural heritage. There is a bit to unpack here.
Now this appears to quash all hope on climbing being allowed near stone tool manufacturing sites – we covered this dilemma in detail in our article “We Need to Talk about Quarrying“. But there is some hope – as the definition of “near” is not made in the document. If it was defined as one or two metres then that would open up the majority of climbing at Arapiles. But if they want to put wider exclusion zones in excess of ten metres they would shelve the majority of rock climbing in the park – which appears to be what they have done. Does this same exclusion apply to potential cultural “tourists” – it would be hard for any tourist to appreciate a chipped rock edge or extremely faded rock art if they are being told to stay 10m away? Double standards of course apply – standard PV policy.
These shattered rocks at the base of Tiger Wall are why it is closed to climbing
Defining Intangible
The document helpfully defines what Intangible Cultural Heritage is according to Parks Victoria and BGLC.
“Intangible cultural heritage including stories, the beliefs and experiences of Traditional Owners and their position within the broader cultural landscape, and cultural knowledge of the landscape from ecological, chemical and cosmological perspectives.” – p.5
Chemical? No idea what that is about. There is no information given on what climbing areas are to be closed because of this intangible heritage. The climbing community may be losing the very best climbing areas in Australia over concerns around “cosmological perspectives” and we would never know.
Quiet! Climber’s noise offends and creates bans
“Recreational activities, including rock climbing, will not be permitted near places considered by Traditional Owners to hold significant intangible values, which could be subject to visible or audible impacts from rock climbing activities.” – p.5
We have all heard the occasional power scream from climbers at crags. When you are pushing yourself through maximum physical and mental barriers this is often the result. Sometimes it’s annoying sure – but does it warrant banning access because of it? Or maybe the tinkle of a bunch of swinging hexes is the offensive part?
Looking at the definition of harm to Aboriginal cultural heritage helpfully included on page 10 it is hard to imagine how climbers making noise fits into any of these categories.
We think climbers everywhere should be aware of other users of the parks we visit and make sure that our actions don’t distract from others enjoyment. If that means toning down the screaming – and leaving portable music at home – sure. That doesn’t “sound” hard to achieve if our very access to public land is at stake. We have no reference if this “audible” concern has closed any specific climbing site at Arapiles.
Mapping
A little snippet down the bottom of page 5 is interesting –
“The existing climbing area polygons (Sourced from Mentz, S. & Tempest, G 2016 Arapiles selected climbs, Open Spaces Publishing, Natimuk) currently represent the most practical boundaries for achieving these objectives as they comprise the best available data and were the units used for recent systematic values assessments. Their use as proxy settings will also significantly reduce the size of buffer zones that were adopted for the 2019 Special Protection Areas. It is expected that in future, the management units will be re-configured to better align with Aboriginal cultural values, places and landscape features in line with Traditional Owner expectations.” – p.5
Not sure what that means exactly – but it appears sometime between 2021 and now they switched to using thecrag.com for mapping. It is unclear what they mean by the management units being switched to better align with Traditional Owner expectations. This seems to confirm that any “final” decision is not final at all and PV and BGLC can change it on a whim if required. Of course if climbers ask for changes that will be impossible but.. yere. We saw that in the Grampians where the popular beginner area the Mountain Lion was deemed a designated climbing area in the formal signed off management plan – then this status was almost immediately revoked upon the instructions of the Traditional Owner groups in charge. Nothing is as permanent as change.
If it’s all too hard to deal with – then it’s banned
Remember how Parks Victoria funding has been cut, staff reduced and the whole organization is likely to be homogenized back into the State government ministers control? That may not be a good thing if they really want to stick to the rules they have made for themselves with this document.
“Where the land manager does not have the resources to actively manage a site or implement agreed mitigation measures where values are present, the site will be closed to rock climbing until such time that these management actions can be implemented. Resources will be actively sought to support implementation.” p.6
Without a significant funding upgrade – that includes more staff than one lone ranger visit every couple of days – they have no hope of “managing” the climbing at Arapiles in the way they propose. Even if they decide to go the full legal threat of “set asides” there appears to be no one around to enforce them. A recent visit to Arapiles by our contributors saw many examples of missing signs and overgrown vegetation obscuring known Aboriginal art sites – and being a legit fire hazard for those sites. They even saw clear evidence of a fox or feral cats living directly under one of the most significant quarry sites featured in recent mainstream news reports. If they can’t manage the smaller bans now – what is the plan for when they quadruple them? If the Grampians is any example it’s likely they just give up quickly and move onto areas that require major management like pest species eradication and bush fire control. Where is the “joint manager” BGLC who is charged with looking after these sites?
Sign entirely obscured by vegetationSign entirely obscured by vegetationMissing signage – it looked like this for over 2 weeksExamples of lack of management of Arapiles – Jan 2025
Climbing history and importance is not factored into “decision making”
What is missing in this document is critical. We all know this by now but it’s good (bad?) to see it so clearly in this document. There is no mention of researching or defining the value and contribution that the proposed closed climbing areas may have to the wider community. No “values” placed on specific routes, walls, rock formations. No mention of historical value of rock climbing to many thousands of people over many decades. Climbing is defined as a nuisance not something with a rich heritage of its own.
This is the proof that the importance of Arapiles to the international community was entirely disregarded by all land managers when making “decisions” on what is banned and what remains opened (less than half).
Also there is no mention of how this decision would impact the wider region economically, socially and health. We now hear of important professionals leaving the region in anticipation of the imminent bans.
PV and BGLC were so focused on the rock in front of them they didn’t see the “forest” of climbers and the wider community around them. It is clear they just knocked off access to climbing areas one by one but didn’t consider the wider ramifications of the end result – the closure of more than half of the internationally significant climbing areas at Arapiles. By the time they finished the report and put it together using their “framework” it was probably to late – they had dug themselves a big hole and couldn’t back out of it. Even some members of GWRN were shocked by the end result.
Flexibility
We all know if it was the government that was building a new walking track, road, hotel there would be acceptance that some harm may occur for the larger benefit to the community. Everything is a balance and tradable. When Parks Victoria chops a new track through the bush they know they are not “protecting” the environment but giving recreational users better access to the park. This does not seem to apply to rock climbing.
The document hints at some flexibility such as “seasonal closures” – but these don’t appear to have made it into the final plan.
“Seasonal rotations based on management capacity and landscape impact/recovery and ability to undertake cultural practices will be considered in the decision making process and implemented, if appropriate.” p.6
There will be no further growth in rock climbing – that’s “colonialism”.
That is Park Victoria’s words not ours – as clearly spelt out in their Decision Framework document on p.5
According to the Decision Framework – all new climbing post 2020 is considered invalid and will not be supported. Imagine if this principle was applied to bush walking, bike riding – or any other park development such as car parks, toilet blocks or signage? Imagine if the construction of the Grampians Peaks Trail was spoken off as an act of “colonialism”? No other activity in singled out in such a way as rock climbing. Remember that community net positive activities such as climbing festivals or events are not to be allowed either. In activist’s (sorry – “government employees”) eyes climbing is a colonial expansionist enterprise that needs to be quashed. Does such an extremist and partisan viewpoint have any place in what should be a boring piece of public service paperwork? The word colonialism is shorthand for “racist” – probably the harshest word that can be thrown at someone in these times. Language matters. In 2025 this is what the Allan Labor government supports.
Would upgrading the summit lookout be deemed “colonisation”?
It’s interesting to see how this document is written – according to the document it’s not the potential opinion of a few individuals in the Aboriginal community that climbing growth is colonisation – it’s written as a given that it is ALL Traditional Owners who have this view point. We know that is simply not true – there are people within the climbing community with Aboriginal ancestry. How well informed were these Traditional Owners in making this decision? They “perceive” this as an issue but did anyone explain to them what it actually means? Do they realize that the vast majority of climbs at Arapiles involve no installation of safety bolts, no potential vegetation or heritage disturbance and “leave no trace” is often the end result? It is the act of hands and feet on rock – like their ancestors probably did for thousand of years without the aid of modern climbing equipment. Someone being present on a bit of rock is not “colonialism” unless you have a bias against that persons ancestors. Moving over rock is something enjoyable that comes naturally to all of humanity and is enjoyed all around the world. Defining when bush walking ends and climbing begins is actually incredibly hard. Just what was told to the Traditional Owners when they agreed with the principle of no new growth of rock climbing in this document?
And what research did Parks Victoria do to define what had been climbed up to 2020? We know they didn’t ask any of the current and past climbing guidebooks authors such as Glen Tempest, Simon Carter, Louise Shepherd or Gordon Poultney. They relied entirely on thecrag.com as their “definitive” list of what had been climbed. We have explained in detail the flaws of relying on such publicly created material – which is chock full of misidentified geographic areas, missing routes, duplication and such. Since the climbing bans started being rammed down the throats of Victorian climbers in 2018 the majority of new crag developers Australia wide have now refused to use thecrag due to the fear of the information being used against the climbing community. It’s a well founded fear. thecrag.com is not a source to be trusted about what has previously been climbed.
When they talk of colonisation do they consider what their heavy handed management plan is having on the free spirit of the rock climbing community? A government who has little understanding of what they plan to manage and even less willingness to incorporate it into decision making processes dares to “colonise” the rock climbing community. See we can also use that word way out of context.
Start again PV.
This document is a farce of navel gazing drivel driven by political views and does not match community expectations of fair access to public land. Let’s hope they take the data they have acquired through years of expensive surveys and rethink the whole management principle of “declared climbing areas” and instead consider closing smaller areas whilst allowing free and fair access to Arapiles and the Grampians wonderful natural environments for generations to come.
If you have been following along on the five+ years that Grampians/Gariwerd and Arapiles/Dyurrite climbing bans have been slowly ratcheting up you will have undoubtedly come across “quarrying” as one of the reasons for area closures. This article will outline how “protecting” these quarries is a major reason for climbing closures in Victoria and that the reasoning behind the bans is highly flawed – rock climbing does not fundamentally harm these sites and both can mutually co-exit as they have done for many decades so far.
Stone tool quarries are the reason many climbing areas are being closed – not rock art sites or sacred sites.
Archeological report from 1992 says that stone tool quarries are almost immune to harm due to being made of rock and that “no action is required” to protect them from climbers.
The only harmed stone tool quarry at Arapiles is from someone shooting bullets into it prior to the area being used for climbing.
Poor mapping by the general public on the thecrag.com have created unnecessary climbing bans.
Other States aren’t banning public access to public land due to rock quarrying.
Stone tool quarry
Why do we need to talk about this?
We have been warned not to talk about this. “It’s their heritage – they can do what they like” “You cannot question the assessment process” and so on.
Yet – people are talking about it behind the scenes or in round about ways. It’s the elephant in the room, with just a nod every now and then in some people’s passionate letters to parliamentarians and land managers.
“Climbing and Cultural Heritage can co-exist, we can all get along”
They mean quarrying.
When Climbing Victoria says in a statement: “Climbing Victoria are keen to work with BGLC to continue to find solutions so that climbing and the preservation of cultural heritage can co-exist in harmony”.
They (primarily) mean quarrying.
They don’t mean rock art (invisible or not), as it is now well known that the half a dozen artwork sites (at Arapiles) are minor, and very tucked away – with no artwork at all on the main cliffs slated to be banned (Tiger Wall, Pharos & Tiptoe Ridge etc). Climbers understand that rock art is rare, delicate and unique and requires protection.
However the parliamentarians don’t know that areas are being closed because of the activity being in proximity of rock quarrying; the public and (most of the) media also don’t. In their minds, they imagine climbers drilling into rock art, and climbing over vast and spectacular sacred sites. When the reality is hundreds of metres (horizontally and vertically) of cliffs are being taken completely off-line because of the existence of rock scarring and loose rock chips at ground level – often tucked away from people under a bulge. No where else in the world bans all access to the general public in huge areas because of rock quarrying.
One tiny bit of rock art exists on a boulder – whilst the entirety of the largest section of cliff at Arapiles is closed because of rock quarrying along the base of some sections of cliff.
What areas are closed because of quarrying?
We can’t be certain because the most recent detailed archeological surveys are not on the public record, but we have a pretty good idea quarrying is the reason for the complete closures of major internationally significant climbing areas such as Tiger Wall, The Pharos, The Bluffs and in the Grampians – Summerday Valley, half of Taipan Wall, Spurt Wall, Muline, Snake Pit, half of Bundaleer, Clicke Wall / Bouldering, The Tower, Plaza Strip, the Gallery, Hollow Mountain Cave and Gilhams Crag just to name a few. And remember because Parks Victoria closes complete climbing “areas” rather than individual climbs – a couple of centimeters of rock scars at ground level can equal the closure of a hundred metre wall containing hundreds of climbing routes.
It should be noted that closures of tourist walking tracks has not occurred because of the existence of Aboriginal quarrying despite much evidence that walkers/scramblers present an equal (or potentially greater?) threat to these sites as do rock climbers. There are many examples of tourist tracks along which such harm is evident and these tracks have not been closed. Double standards PV? You can read more about this hypocritical stance from PV here in our article from 2020 – where tourists are more likely Hollow Words – PV Ignores Tourist Damage at Aboriginal Site.
What are Aboriginal quarries?
From the the Victorian Government’s First People’s State Relations Fact Sheet:
Aboriginal quarries are places where Aboriginal people took stone from rocky outcrops to make chipped or ground stone tools for many different purposes.
the rock is a type that can be made into stone tools, such as greenstone, silcrete and quartzite [Arapiles]
the outcrop bears scars from flaking, crushing and battering
pits and trenches are found around the base of the outcrop
large amounts of broken stone, particularly flakes, are the same type of stone as the outcrop
identifiable stone artefacts, such as unfinished tools, hammerstones, anvils and grinding stones may be around the site
There are the scars on the outcrop where the rock has been removed – and there are also the chips of rock littering the ground under the scars – the remains of “processing” stone tools. Mostly these are just failed attempts at fashioning tools or simply off-cuts. It is very rare to find an actual intact finished tool at a quarry site. Often you will read about these off-cuts being described as “rock scatters” – and there can obviously be thousands of these chips in areas that stone tools were being manufactured.
One thing to note is that policy has shifted in recent years and stone tools are very rarely removed from a site and taken to a museum (they already have plenty in their collections). They are usually just buried in ground after recording – often tucked away somewhere a bit hidden like next to a tree stump if the tool was found right next to a walking track etc. The tools are part of a holistic archeological “site” rather than just an individual object. If you walk along a tourist track near rock you are very likely to be walking on or near Aboriginal “rock scatters”.
Stone tools in the collection of Australian Museum
Some important things to note in the fact sheet:
What to do if you find an Aboriginal quarry? “Do not disturb the place or remove any material“.
It also says why they are important: “Aboriginal quarries tell us a lot about Aboriginal stone tools, provide a rare glimpse into the fabric of past Aboriginal society” etc.
We don’t question this – it is important to know where the stone came from, how tools were made, their link to other finds, the date of the sites and so-on. They are also obviously a fantastic link to the past for the Aboriginal community. Something as permanent as stone can last thousands of years – unlike wooden tools etc.
Arapiles’ quarries
In the latest round of bans announced by Parks Victoria they said this…
“Archaeological surveys have confirmed the Dyurrite Cultural Landscape is a place rich with cultural heritage including… one of the largest stone quarry complexes found in Australia.” – Engage Victoria website
Clarification – I think they forgot to put in a couple of words there – “largest pre-colonial stone tool quarry complexes found in Australia” is likely a more factual statement. We suspect many people unfamiliar with pre-colonial quarries in Australia may have a vision of something huge and imposing.
This is not what is being discussed here. Below is an example of one of the more extensive quarry sites at Arapiles – near the route Pilot Error. It appears a couple of kilograms of quartzite rock has been removed by smashing rock against rock along a natural rock fracture point. When Park’s Victoria and BGLC talk about quarries this is what they are talking about.
A stone tool quarry site at Arapiles – this one is near the Pilot Error ledge system.
Other pre-colonial quarry sites in Australia
What are we comparing it to here? In this article the ABC claims “Australia’s Silk Road” is up in Queensland with claimed “200 quarry sites have been uncovered so far, with the largest containing 14,000 pits”. The article fails to show any photos beyond a scattering of small rocks on a plain. In NSW there is the Millpost stone axe quarry – there is an informative video on their website about how the axes were created – well worth a look. Closer to the Melbourne we have the Mount William Stone Hatchet Quarry – (not to be confused with Mt William in the Grampians). This area is described as “Hundreds of mining pits and mounds of waste rock“. This area appears entirely off limits to the the general public with it being owned outright by the Wurundjeri Woi Wurrung Cultural Heritage Aboriginal Corporation. Photos online show a couple of bits of knee height rock poking out of a grassy plain.
Arapiles is certainly a more impressive feature than that, but it’s the hardness and flaking qualities that are important – not the size of the mountain.
Mt William Stone Quarry, Victoria
Dyurrite – one of the largest stone quarry complexes found in Australia?
“A vast stone-tool quarrying and manufacturing site of potential national significance has been identified at Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park, in Victoria’s west.
The production site, which extends for around 200 metres around the base of a rock face, is where Traditional Owners – the Jadawadjali, part of the Wotjobaluk Nations – manufactured a variety of tools from stone sourced all over Dyurrite (Mount Arapiles). These included sharp-edged knives and spear-heads for cutting and hunting, and flat stones for grinding foods or crushing materials, such as to make pigments for painting.
The manufacturing site was also used to prepare the quarried stone for trade – stone from Dyurrite has been found throughout south-east Australia, part of the extensive Aboriginal trade network that existed prior to European arrival.”
So just how big are the quarries at Arapiles? The rock type is quartize, and is commonly found in the region, but while there are a lot of rocky overhangs, shelves etc at Arapiles (and nearby Grampians) – only the best bits seem to have been quarried – compared to the vast amounts of stone in the landscape. Indeed the recent book “Gariwerd – an Environmental History (which also mentions Arapiles) it says (P15) “Stone Tools were sourced locally, but lacked flaking qualities” It doesn’t go into detail, but compared to the Mt William quarries mentioned above, we suspect the claims might be more about the area that the quarrying is spread over, rather than the size of the sites themselves.
Even if only 10kg of stone was removed every year from the Arapiles cliffs over the last 3000 years (the shortest period of time we have read for occupation claims) we should see evidence of thirty tonnes of rock being removed. This is not what we see at Arapiles – it is of much smaller scale. The quarrying appears to be so minor in scale that no one seems to have noticed most of it until 2020 – and discoveries prior to that were only briefly mentioned in archeology reports.
The 1992 Arapiles archeology report
We’ll be referring to a document, Mt Arapiles Tooan State Park Archaeological Survey December 1992, a bit in this article. It appears to have been written as a public document, but these days it is relatively hard to access unless you live in Canberra or work within the Victorian government. No institution allows it to be removed from their collection on loan. We found a copy in the National Library but we cannot share the report in full here due to copyright restrictions. It contains an academic survey and assessment of the archaeological sites of Mt Arapiles.
This survey lists 38 “sites” – with 10 being rock quarries and 13 being rock scatter sites. It also lists a couple of small art sites and 8 scar trees and a several other items such as unconfirmed water wells. So by far the majority of listed sites are directly involved with rock quarrying. Some of the listed sites are described as “minor and obviously a desultory attempt to obtain raw material“. Every attempt by someone to smash rock off an outcrop is recorded even if it was quickly abandoned as unsuitable.
While the latest surveys done in 2020 did uncover new, previously unknown sites, the majority were in fact already known about as a result of the 1992 surveys documented in this report. Local climbers such as Louise Shepherd were involved in the earlier surveys and took archaeologists to some hard to reach sites. It appears at the time that climbing and these sites were not mutually exclusive (more about this later). We do not have access to the 2020 report as it is kept secret as part of recent cultural heritage legislation – a problem that really hampers open and honest dialogue about these issues.
Some technical details about the quarry surveys in the 1992 report.
Are Aboriginal quarries under threat by climbing?
This is the big one – and it’s covered extensively in the archeological report from 1992.
“Quarries are not normally recognized as Aboriginal sites by the general public and are usually immune to vandalism. Being composed of rock, the quarries are also difficulty to either unintentionally or deliberately disturb or destroy.” – Mt Arapiles Tooan State Park Archaeological Survey December 1992
From the Victorian Government’s First People’s State Relations Fact Sheet: “Human activities such as mining, road building, damming, clearing and construction can disturb or destroy Aboriginal quarries”.
No kidding – those are clearly destructive. No mention of recreational activities such as climbing or walking.
The location of most quarries at ground level – usually at a height that someone could sit and strike bits of rock off – means they are only briefly in the region where climbers operate. Bare hands and soft rubber soled climber shoes don’t damage rock that is being used to build hardy stone cutting tools (hint PV – we don’t use metal spikes on our shoes!). By their very nature rock quarries are places of solid rock – with the only way of removing the rock by striking it hard with another rock to split off a separate section to make a tool. This is not something climbers are doing.
The fact sheet also mentions “Natural processes such as weathering and erosion can also cause the gradual breakdown of stone outcrops“. Yes, in millions of years, those quarry’s won’t be there anymore – but neither will we.
This overhang has a subtle quarried edge – it is also a boulder problem established more than a decade ago. The quarried edges remain as sharp as the day they were created. No harm done.
Are Aboriginal quarries legally protected?
Again, from Victorian Government’s First People’s State Relations Fact Sheet:
“All Aboriginal cultural places in Victoria are protected by law. Aboriginal artefacts are also protected [meaning fragments on the ground]. It is illegal to disturb or destroy an Aboriginal place. Artefacts should not be removed from the site.”
Yep – all good. No disturbance. Ok, got it.
The 1992 Archaeological Survey is also revealing… in that it attempts to highlight any instances where climbers come into contact with and interfere with quarry sites – yet finds almost no cause for concern.
We know this because the report tells us in site by site detail:
Chicken boulder quarry – climbing is evident but not a concern.This one is believed to be on Pilot Error Ledge. Climbers chalk on the overhang (above the quarrying), no damage. Narrow Ledge does not favour build-up of “cultural deposits”.Climbs finish near this spot – No action required.This one (possibly along Tiger wall or the Bluffs) is a quarry on a route itself. The climb is unpopular (and probably remains unpopular, although we’re not sure which route it is). Peg marks at the South end (climbers no longer use pegs) and no fixed protection (no bolts). Popular Route 8m away.
Perhaps this is why, even after this report was produced, no attempts were made to protect identified quarry sites by removing climbers – because there was no “red flags” that were causes of concern. Damage hadn’t happened and that meant “no action is necessary”. The report talked of actions required to protect delicate art sites – and these included “concealment“, “monitoring“, and “protecting sites with a physical barrier“. This barrier is what was installed at the Cultural [art] Site next to the Plaque – and it worked – with climbers staying away since it was placed there.
In 2023, the ACAV also dived into the potential legal ramifications of climbers coming into contact with quarry sites, and is worth a read.
It would appear that the only “offence” that could be alleged by Parks Victoria would be disobeying park rules, as defined within the management plan (a plan, not an Act). Such an allegation would be open to challenge in the Magistrates Court in the same way a person would challenge an inappropriate traffic infringement notice
Anyway, where we go now is…
Misconceptions around climbing
Climbers “know” they aren’t damaging these sites, and this is acknowledged by PV (link to the Engage Victoria Community Information Session), that despite 60 years of climbers and hikers walking (sometimes over) quarry sites, they remain undamaged.
We’ll get to what has changed, but back to the actual survey there were indeed concerns raised about the possibly of harm to quarry sites, and it is raised thus:
So the report does raise a concern about safety bolts – and it would be legitimate – if climbers placed safety bolts anywhere near quarry sites.
Firstly, the vast majority of climbs at Arapiles do not use safety bolts – instead they use “natural protection” which is removable and utilizes natural crack features and doesn’t leave permanent damage. This is the ethic of “clean climbing” in the community – and Mt Arapiles is our jewel in the crown of clean climbing in Australia. 99% of routes at Arapiles do not require safety bolts.
But if safety bolts are used – they wouldn’t conflict with stone tool quarry sites because they need to be installed at least three metres above the ground to be functional. Safety bolts are never placed at or near the ground, or eye level, or in fact anywhere you can actually reach from the ground. A ground level safety bolt has no use – it’s not going to stop a climber hitting the ground!
Pilot Error – an area with a quarry at ground level – the nearest bolt is many metres above the ground. No harm.
Safety bolts in general are not frowned upon – they are used where otherwise a fall might result in severe injury or death. Think about that. They are also used as a way of descent from the top of some climb features – often independent pillars with no walk off option – which is often a safer way of getting down, and reduces foot-traffic and erosion down more sensitive gullies.
In the 30 years since this archeological survey was published we’d be confident to suggest that no safety bolts have been placed near a quarry site as to impact any part of it. There is limited scope for any new climbs at Arapiles so new bolts are unlikely to be placed. We can be certain that any consideration for new climbs would factor in the location of nearby Cultural Heritage.
However, if you think that the survey authors from 30 years ago were unsure how safety bolts are used in the climbing community, they’ve got nothing on current PV executives (or possibly about to be ex-PV executives).
Despite GWRN’s best efforts to “assist TO’s to understand how climbing works“, and how we might use various spaces – we still have the perception (and a perception that is encouraged) that climbers bolt, chalk, and use “toe hooks” (not kidding) on Cultural Heritage. Their vision is one of a 1950s mountaineer banging in pitons and hooking up a cliff with ice axes and crampons. Back in 2019 when Summerday Valley was closed, PV staff were observed stating concerns about climbers using sledgehammers and generators, which is demonstrably false. Climbers don’t use those things.
Summerday Valley quarry on Wall of Fools – tucked under an overhang and not touched by climbers. No harm.
Harm in the real world
The biggest threat to quarries would be PV infrastructure projects themselves that often involve chiseling stone steps into ground level rock slabs and installing handrails and metal ladders.
Parks Victoria’s own actions vastly outpace any impacts climbers have to the natural environment as seen here in the Grampians, although we’re not suggesting there was any quarrying at these projects.
Another major source of potential harm to rock quarries would be bush-fire damage – either accidentally lit or lit as part of “proscribed burns”. Rocks literally explode or peel off like onion skins when exposed to high heat as trapped water in the rock expands to steam. We have seen this in full effect in the Grampians – especially around Hollow Mountain area with huge chunks of rock ripping off the wall.
Rock damage after bushfires
Has there been any recorded damage to quarries at Arapiles?
The only reference to any damage to a quarry site in the 1992 archeology report was noted as being created by bullets being fired at a shelter!
p.81 Shooting bullets has actually damaged at least one quarry site and created fake stone chips.
No attempts have been made by Parks Victoria to fence off any quarry site at Arapiles – and even now climbers continue to use many areas slated to be banned if the Dyurrite Cultural Landscape Management Plan Amendment is approved. Land managers know that climbers are not physically damaging these quarry sites.
Chalk and rockfall
In the 1992 archeological report chalk is mentioned in a few places – chalk was visible some metres away or above the quarry site. Even if chalk was inadvertently used on a quarried edge – common sense suggests that no harm is actually done. We’re not suggesting there needs to be NO concern – just that banning whole cliffs as a pre-emptive measure on the very small probably of a bit of chalk use is patently ridiculous (remember 95% of quarrying sites are not on actual rock-climbs – so chalk is a non-issue). The famous Gallery climbing area in the Grampians was banned because of a single “quarried” rock chip that was used as a climbing hold on Monkey Puzzle. The popular Spurt Wall warm-up boulder traverse has several ancient “chipped” holds that got a dab of chalk on them.
Chalk can be removed easily using water and a soft brush. It is not permanent and should not be treated as such. Check out this how-to guide here on the ACCNSW site.
Rockfall could damage quarry sites – but funnily enough it’s not mentioned in either the 1992 report – or indeed any recent communications from PV or BGLC. However, we have heard this being used as a reason why the act of climbing could harm quarry sites. The only thing is – that we’re not aware of any quarry sites being damaged this way. Arapiles is considered some of the best quality rock on the planet – rockfall is not normal or expected. There is a reason why school groups love climbing at Arapiles – rock fall is simply not a factor to be considered. Brains of alive human beings need to be protected as well!
We have been told by someone familiar with the survey’s that the Tiger Wall “quarry” may not actually be much of a quarry – instead it is supposed that it could be a site of “processing” suitable rocks, which were trundled off the top?! of the cliff and smashed onto the slab below – and then these smashed remains were further crafted into rock tools. It’s an interesting theory, but for starters, we have no idea how you would determine natural rockfall from deliberately thrown rocks – and also how you would determine recent rockfall vs pre colonisation rockfall.
In regards to any further potential rockfall, it’s important to note that the majority of loose or dangerous rocks that might have fallen from the cliffs have already done so in decades past (or been removed). There are very few loose rocks left on popular routes, and although the risk is not zero – it is also not zero if climbers are removed, as all sorts of things can impact rockfall – tourists throwing rocks, trees falling over near summits, rain and thunderstorms, and so on.
Quarry site featured in PV documentation
Sacred quarries?
There aren’t many sources making the claim that quarry sites are sacred. Blanket statements that climbers are “climbing on our Sacred Sites” are a bit disingenuous when the majority of closures to rock climbing areas are in fact due to quarrying.
Yes, they are protected under the Cultural Heritage acts, and should be kept in perpetuity, but sacred?
1984 ATSIHPA (Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Heritage Protection Act)
While the Vic 2006 Act doesn’t even mention quarrying, it does mention Sacred objects “Sacred, according to Aboriginal Tradition“. (P14)
Aboriginal cultural heritage means “Aboriginal places, Aboriginal objects and Aboriginal ancestral remains“. (P3)
When it comes to “harm” the 2006 Act gives the following definition:
Note that the act was amended in 2015 to include “disturb” and “interfere with”. The explanatory memorandum specifically says this: “This is intended to assist in clarifying that collecting or removing Aboriginal objects from an Aboriginal places is an offence.” Yeah, not rock-climbers.
This kind of wording was required to prevent theft or collecting of rocks – and makes sense at places like Mt William (above) where you could (in theory) drive in and load up your car with quarried rocks.
Desecrate is an odd one – with religious overtones – Oxford says it means “treat (a sacred place or thing) with violent disrespect“. Quarries are unlikely to be “sacred” so again it doesn’t appear relevant but it is hard to judge what what person finds offensive in 2024.
We’re not suggesting the 2006 Act doesn’t or shouldn’t, apply to quarrying – but it’s wording is incredibly vague – so the smallest thing in the Act could lead to big access closures for all sorts of things. The majority of the 2006 Act tends to focus on Aboriginal Ancestral remains (big legal area), and construction / development of land – which inherently involves destruction of landscapes, mining etc.
Climbers are getting lumped in with high impact activities like land-development and mining – and that’s why so many climbers are voicing their opinions loud and clear on this issue. You can read about some of the regulatory burden that has been placed on Park Victoria’s operations in our 2020 article Parks Victoria Admits Heritage Regulations “Unsustainable”.
Proportional buffer zones?
So we know that climbing is highly unlikely to cause any damage to hard rock quarry sites – the archeologist report itself says this as does PV lack of physical barriers at quarry sites. But at the same time we see huge buffer zones put around previous climbing areas – appearing to close major cliff features like Tiger Wall and the Pharos. These same buffer zones don’t apply on walking tracks and roads on public land managed by Parks Victoria.
Thess area bans appears to be incredibly lazy management – using thecrag.com polygon mapping to restrict climbing access in an ad hoc way. The crazy thing is most of the polygon mapping of climbing areas on thecrag.com was not done by experts, or even locals – and it certainly wasn’t validated by any sort of official committee or anything. Official Arapiles guidebook authors such as Glen Tempest, Simon Mentz, Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have never been involved in updating thecrag.com mapping. None of these people were consulted by Parks Victoria area closures either.
Park Victoria’s own mapping uses imagery so poor due to cliff shading it is very hard to work out what is open or closed.
As a public “wiki” site anyone can just jump onto thecrag.com and draw a couple of lines around a fuzzy aerial photo that approximates a geological formation. When most of the mapping was done at Arapiles for thecrag.com by “Joe Public” more than a decade ago the online aerial photos were of terrible quality – very low resolution and often contained blurred glitches from poor photo stitching. They aren’t much better today when you take a look. These photos are updated every year – and often it means these polygon borders are now totally inaccurate. Often these climbing area borders cross another area into a mess of overlapping polygons.
Polygon “borders” of sites such as the Pharos are incredibly rough – but this is now taken as gospel by Parks Victoria as the border of each climbing area. If a small quarried rock feature strays into one of these loosely defined polygons – BANG – the entire area appears to have been closed. So one random person’s one minute approximate polygon drawn in the 2000s in Microsoft Explorer can shut a world class climbing area permanently. This is lazy management 101. We suspect someone back in the PV office didn’t even put boots to the ground when coming up with their mapping on what is open – or not.
Examples of thecrag.com’s poor photo quality and rough “borders” of each climbing area.
And don’t forget when Parks Victoria claims half of the climbing areas at Arapiles will remain open – they are not comparing apples with apples. One “closed” area such as Tiger Wall can be massive – whilst an “open” area can be a tiny insignificant boulder sitting at the bottom of the cliff.
Unanswered Questions
In July 2022, The ACAV wrote a letter to Park Victoria’s Chief Conservation Scientist – seeking to clarify the issue of large area closures due to stone tool quarrying:
Park Victoria’s written reply was the usual formative letter that many have received over the last 5 years – entirely ignoring any of the detailed points in ACAV’s letter.
Hollow Mountain tourist track goes straight over this rock tool quarry. PV refuses to acknowledge this publically.
How are quarry sites protected elsewhere?
We mentioned in a recent article how even art sites could co-exist with recreational parks users – if given some space, signage and trust – rather than steel cages, but how are stone tool sites protected elsewhere? Here’s a sign for an area in NSW. Note – It’s not a quarry itself – but a toolmaking site, but does not say “no access”.
Even around Alice Springs – where the Arrernte people still live and have a deep continuing connection to Country – some sites (this is about 5km from town) just have a sign whilst access remains open to the general public. Respect and care – not exclusion, and this isn’t a quarry site – it’s a Sacred Site.
Quarries as tourism drawcards?
The Labor Allan government has been pushing the idea that “Cultural Tourism” could be a replacement for climbing tourism at Arapiles once they shut down half of the climbing. The location of the quarries at Arapiles and the small size of them means they are unlikely to be a tourist drawcard. There are equally as impressive sites an hour closer to Melbourne in the Grampians at pre-existing tourist areas such as Hollow Mountain – and these quarries are neither signposted or physically protected. It’s clear that Parks Victoria does not see any great tourism appeal from these areas. The press releases may call the Arapiles quarries as “one of the largest stone quarry complexes found in Australia” but this does not equate to something of broad public interest. As we write this it is 42 degrees at Arapiles – we can bet there is still a couple of dozen keen climbers out there on the rocks. Would any sane tourist drive 4 hours from Melbourne to look at rock chipped edges in the blazing sun? And what guarantee do we have that these tourists would behave appropriately around these quarries and look after them? We don’t believe there is any evidence to show they would be a superior “customer” than the rock climbers who currently consist of 99% of the visitors to Arapiles State Park.
Old quarries as climbing areas?
We would also like to point out the paradox that many of the most popular climbing areas in Australia are actually old colonial era rock quarries – for example Kangaroo Point is a 195 year old stone quarry that is now Queensland’s most popular climbing area. Perth’s premier outdoor climbing crag is Mountain Quarry, whilst Hobart has Fruehauf and Waterworks Quarry. No one seems to think climbing is incompatible at these areas despite significant heritage value to these places.
Kangaroo Point quarry – Brisbane
Moving forward?
Should long-known pre-colonial stone tool quarry sites justify fully banning recreational use of public land, even when no harm to the sites has been observed? That’s the key question.
We propose that both quarry sites and climbing could co-exist as they have done for many decades so far without harm being caused. Spread knowledge about the existence of these areas so climbers are aware of them. Close or redirect the start of specific routes if required. This was done successfully on the left side of Taipan Wall (let’s not talk about the right side…)
You know what type of quarry will radically affect the Wimmera landscape? The bloody huge mineral sands project approved by the Labor Allan government that is all over the news right now – 200 million tonnes will be removed. That’s the one we should all be fighting. What sums of money were paid to the Aboriginal parties to allow that mine to proceed?
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…especially with non-climbing friends when they ask, or assume that climbers are climbing all over Cultural Heritage and art sites.
Don’t forget to check out our 100+ other articles from the past 5 years about rock climbing bans on public land in Victoria.
Further reading…
Want some “light reading” – take a look at these three reports from Parks Victoria and the Victorian Aboriginal Heritage Council about Cultural Heritage protection. It’s plainly obvious this is a huge bureaucratic monster and PV is having to hit KPIs after years of under performance in this field. We would hopefully do a deep dive on these documents soon.
Wondered how other jurisdictions protect Aboriginal cultural heritage whilst continuing to allow public use of land for recreation? We recently visited an excellent example in the Blue Mountains, New South Wales.
For over 4 years Parks Victoria and Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) have been working behind closed doors to formulate a plan to close more than half of the Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park to all recreational users. This is a piece of public land who’s main users, up to this point, have been rock climbers – well over 50,000 a year and they make up more than 90% of the visitors to the park. These recently announced restrictions on access include some of the worlds largest climbing bans and eliminate thousands of individual climbing routes – many considered to be irreplaceable by the climbing community. Read the details of their plan here.
This article covers some of the ways that community consultation regarding these bans has been either ignored or manipulated to create a an end result that Parks Victoria and BGLC want.
Parks Victoria has announced community consultation about this plan on its Engage Victoria website – a familiar platform if you were around during the Grampians bans.
Have they “engaged” with the community in this journey? No.
News just in… Parks Victoria and the Victorian Government continue their destruction of the Australian climbing community by enlarging climbing bans at Arapiles and ignoring the majority users in any form of consultation.
[update – we have now published our detailed analysis of the impacts of the bans on our much longer article Arapiles Climbing Ban – The Plan. The following information on this page is now no longer the current information.