Management Plan Submissions – You have until 24th January!

Act Now!

Parks Victoria has given the community 10 measly weeks to give them feedback on their diabolical plan to gut climbing in the Grampians – the deadline is Sunday 24 January 2021. Put that date in your calendar – don’t put this off. If you care about the future of rock climbing or bouldering in the Grampians (and Victoria) we really need you and your friends and family to go to the Engage Victoria website and leave your feedback. It can be done as a simple survey or send them an email – parkplan@engage.vic.gov.au . You can agree or disagree with all or parts of their plan – the most important thing is they get lots of feedback from climbers. Need inspiration on what to write – or just want to sign-on to a group submission? Check out the links at the bottom this page.

Continue reading Management Plan Submissions – You have until 24th January!

Off the Charts – the real route losses in the Grampians

We have crunched the data on the proposed route closures as detailed in the draft Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan and the results are pretty shocking. Parks Victoria didn’t list individual route closures – instead they used the misleading term “climbing areas” when announcing what was being closed. Why is it misleading? Because each area can vary wildly in how many routes/problems they contain. 32 “areas” on PV’s list contain less than 5 routes, whilst come areas contain over 100 (the average per area is 25). Even worse 26 “areas” out of 86 on their approved list contain less than 5 “ticks” on the crag – a good judge of an area’s popularity (is a crag with 5 ticks even worth assessing for climbers damage?) We extracted data from thecrag.com to get the real figures on the potential climbing losses if this management plan goes forward (which is highly likely).

Continue reading Off the Charts – the real route losses in the Grampians

New Management Plan Revealed – Only 22% of routes open to climbing, Permits required, Bouldering decimated

  • PV to only allow access to 2000 routes out of 8700
  • Trackside, Bleachers, Valley of the Giants & Snake Pit bouldering added to banned list
  • Climbing permits to be introduced – and they can be revoked at PVs discretion
  • Ban on white chalk – coloured ok?
  • Bouldering mats to be banned at most “open” areas
  • No new areas to be developed & no new bolts
  • Huge new bans on bouldering in remote areas
Continue reading New Management Plan Revealed – Only 22% of routes open to climbing, Permits required, Bouldering decimated

Hollow Words – PV Ignores Tourist Damage at Aboriginal Site

If you tuned into Park Victoria “webnair” last night you would have experienced a cavalcade of questions regarding tourists at Hollow Mountain. We hope this primer helps answer a few questions on what it is all about.

What is the problem?

Parks Victoria allows tourists to damage Aboriginal sites at Hollow Mountain Special Protection Area. PV denies knowledge of the problem and refuses to close area to tourists despite closing numerous climbing sites for the same reason. This proves PV’s vendetta against climbers.

What is Hollow Mountain?

Hollow Mountain is the top end of Mt Stapylton (the same rock formation as Taipan Wall) and is located in the far north of the Grampians National Park. It is an area of caves, cliffs and lookouts visited by thousands of tourists a year via an approved and constructed trail built by Parks Victoria. It would probably be the most popular tourist walking track outside of the Halls Gap area and is heavily used by tour bus companies and school groups. There is sometimes a literal conga line of backpackers making their way up to the summit on sunrise or sunset.

Tourists getting touchy feely with Hollow Mountain

You can find official info about the walk up to Hollow Mountain on the website of Parks Victoria, Visit Grampians and even the Victorian State government official tourist website Visit Victoria. #hollowmountain on Instagram features almost 3000 photographs of the area.

Rock climbing is banned – but tourists are all over the rocks.

Hollow Mountain sits entirely inside a Special Protection Area (SPA) that was put in place in 2003 . This SPA lists rockclimbing and absieling as “not appropriate“. However it is not hard to find photos on social media of tourists crawling, climbing and standing in caves and on top of cliffs at Hollow Mountain.

Tourists and websites describe the experience as “climbing”

Scrolling through Tripadvisor reviews and the phrases “climbing” and “rock climbing” are often used by tourists to describe the way they get to the summit of Hollow Mountain.

Tripadvisor reviews of Hollow Mountain

Even the governments own tourist website describes it as a “climb”

“The track leads you to the base of an iron-stained cliff. It’s a steep and strenuous climb through fallen boulders and along exposed ledges. A short uphill scramble completes the climb to the wind-scoured caverns of Wudjub-guyan (Hollow Mountain) with views overlooking Mount Stapylton and the Wimmera plains. “

Quote from Visit Victoria’s website

Tourists are damaging Aboriginal art and quarries at Hollow Mountain

These sanctioned summiteers are indiscriminately and directly damaging rock art and rock tool quarries at Hollow Mountain area on a regular basis.

Tourists walking straight over a stone tool rock quarry

An infamous 2016 spray paint incident was so bad it was covered in the mainstream press – read articles about it here and here. This is not potential damage – this is very real.

Parks Victoria has refused to act despite previous recorded incident in 2016 and being informed of new damage in 2019

The ACAV first informed Parks Victoria on October 4th 2019 about damage to cultural heritage by tourists at Hollow Mountain in a face to face meeting with PV COO Simon Talbot (MIA?) and PV Head of Planning Stuart Hughes. Subsequent written correspondence to PV from members of the public about this damage has been largely ignored or brushed off with a “We will get back to you on this“. A year has passed since Parks Victoria was made aware of the problem and nothing has been done.

Parks Victoria denies knowledge about Aboriginal cultural heritage in the area

In Tuesday night’s Park Victoria “online event” Will Cox (Senior Manager Strategic Projects) denied knowledge of Aboriginal cultural heritage in the Hollow Mountain area when questioned. He informed the audience that they would have to investigate the claims put to them about damage to cultural heritage in this location. He acted as if they didn’t know anything about it. Other questions related to this topic were ignored by the moderator.

Their claim is bollux. PV knows all about cultural heritage at Hollow Mountain – they banned climbers because of it!

Remember PV’s claim of no knowledge is a full year after ACAV informed them about new damage and four years since the spray paint episode where PV was quoted in the newspaper as saying “graffiti has been found on a shelf at Hollow Mountain in the Grampians, only 100 metres from a significant Aboriginal cultural heritage site. They certainly knew about cultural heritage in Hollow Mountain in 2016.

But there are plenty of other reasons they know and just don’t want to admit there is a problem brewing in allowing tourists to wander and climb at around Hollow Mountain rock face and caves.

Their own 2003 Grampians Management Plan lists the Hollow Mountain SPA as an “aboriginal site”. This is the very reason why they say they can ban climbing at Hollow Mountain – it’s in the plan!

In a 2016 Rock Climbing and Bouldering Update document published by Parks Victoria after a series of major bushfires – they list Hollow Mountain climbing areas as “OPEN” but also says it is a “significant site for Aboriginal people“.

In a document issued to the Rock Climbing Roundtable earlier this year, Parks Victoria lists a Cultural Heritage assessment as having been conducted at Hollow Mountain. After this assessment the area remains closed to climbers.

Why doesn’t Parks Victoria close Hollow Mountain to all as a precautionary measure?

They seem happy to close off nearby Taipan Wall and huge sections of Arapiles to everyone as some sort of “temporary protection zone” whilst they sort out the details of assessments and devise new management solutions with TOs. We have been told this could take years to sort out. But don’t forget these are predominantly climbing areas not tourist sites listed on Visit Victoria. Why is Hollow Mountain any different to Taipan Wall? Tourists are walking over and writing on important cultural heritage sites. Parks Victoria – ignore this at your peril.

There are plenty more examples of damage to cultural heritage found at other Grampians tourist areas in this recent investigative article by Glen Tempest – Bushwalking Bans Looming in the Grampians/Gariwerd. Check it out!

Please share this article and don’ t forget to check out the other 60+ articles on this blog for further background reading. Stay tuned for further updates…

4500+ Climbs Closed – 38% Gramps and Arapiles Now off-Limits

  • Half of Grampians climbing routes are now closed
  • Tiger Wall, Castle Crag, Fang Buttress and Black Ians Rocks latest areas to close to all visitors
  • Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan draft has been completed
  • Parks Victoria confirms SPA & no climbing rule near Roses Gap Recreation Centre
  • Parks Victoria forced to reprint signage after admitting errors

We are going to just start with an update on statistics so everyone is on the same page when it comes to understanding the extent of the current climbing closures in the Grampians and Arapiles region. We have included this weeks Arapiles and Black Ians Rocks closure announcements.

Continue reading 4500+ Climbs Closed – 38% Gramps and Arapiles Now off-Limits

Taipan, Spurt and Bundaleer – “Temporarily” Banned

  • Parks Victoria announce “temporary protection zone” around Australia’s best climbing areas
  • All access, including bush-walking is prohibited as of today
  • Climbing access organizations VCC & ACAV were given no advance notice of these bans
  • Gariwerd Wimmera Reconciliation Network has been consulting with PV & TOs about these site closures since at least June
  • Bans cannot be adjusted until after new management plan is announced (next year at earliest)
Continue reading Taipan, Spurt and Bundaleer – “Temporarily” Banned

Climber’s survey – Have your say

This survey has CLOSED and results are being analyzed.

Save Grampians Climbing have put together a climber’s survey and we’re inviting all climbers that have visited Arapiles or the Grampians to fill it out, or as many as possible. Please share to your friends, clubs and networks. Survey will remain available for a few weeks over the Christmas / New Year period, but it only takes around 10mins to fill out.

Continue reading Climber’s survey – Have your say

Sign of the Times – Protection Rules Relaxed for Profit?

  • Latest about Taipan from GWRN
  • New PV sign says tour operators can climb in Victoria Range SPAs
  • The Roses Gap Recreation Centre mystery
  • Minister’s letter confirms expiry of Interim Protection Declaration at Arapiles
  • Aboriginal Victoria denies Special Protection Areas are associated with Aboriginal Heritage Act or Regulations
  • Draft Grampians Landscape Management Plan “hoped to be out for public comment by the end of this year”
  • Graffiti rampant in Grampians according to PV
  • Roundtable 5 announced – then delayed?
Continue reading Sign of the Times – Protection Rules Relaxed for Profit?

Arapiles Protection Declaration Expires

  • Arapiles’ Brain Death Boulder (Dyurrite 1) Interim Protection Declaration expires without renewal
  • FOI docs reveal archeological work is never put out to tender
  • Castle Crag & Mitre Rock potentially on the chopping block

The following is a quick look at the timelines and discrepancies associated with the closure of the Dyurrite 1 site – known to climbers as the Brain Death Boulder at Arapiles.

Continue reading Arapiles Protection Declaration Expires

Legal Action in the Supreme Court (Plus Formal Complaints)

  • October 2020 sees climbers vs PV in court
  • VCC submits a formal complaint to Victorian Ombudsman’s Office
  • ACAV submits formal complaint to Australian Association of Consulting Archaeologists
  • New FOI documents reveal dodgy archeological procurement from PV
  • Victorian Climbing Management Guidelines launched
Continue reading Legal Action in the Supreme Court (Plus Formal Complaints)

Assist efforts in restoring access to world renowned climbing areas in the Grampians National Park