Next Wednesday is a new beginning for the future of rock climbing in the Grampians. Or is it?

A lot of climbers have expressed frustration with the lack of progress in the Grampians climbing situation. This angst has been brought about especially by the replies many of us have received to our letters of concern directed to State Ministers and Parks Victoria. Almost without fail these replies have come straight from the public relations textbook – a couple of nice platitudes about rock climbing and then cookie cutter mention of a new Grampians National Park management plan that is in the process of being created as the “solution” to any concerns from climbers.

It’s been just over six months since the rock climbing “bans” in the Grampians were announced by Parks Victoria. It’s worth looking back and seeing what damage so far this has caused to the climbing community. Numbers don’t lie – so lets look at those!

Many climbers have asked just how legal these climbing “bans” in the Grampians are. It’s an interesting question and worth exploring in detail. Much of the vagueness in Parks Victoria’s press releases and public statements reveal just how grey it really is – and we are sure they know it.

What you are about to read is a tale of deception and bluster. An email trail between land managers secretly planning the removal of rock-climbers from most of the Grampians crags, whilst the very same climbers appear oblivious to what is coming. Wool pulled over their eyes they profess the desire for consultation whilst the plans for their execution have already been drawn up.

This is a guest post by Mike Rockell, a climbing lifer who left New Zealand and moved to Melbourne 4 years ago. His history with Victorian climbing goes back a lot earlier than that though, with his first trip to Arapiles in 1984. Mike is still climbing grade 26 at age 60. The Grampians, with it’s amazing rock and pre-historic beauty, have been his most recent climbing inspiration. Having seen significant climbing closures in New Zealand, Mike has now became part of the interim committee of the ACAV, following and working closely on the Grampians access issues.

1975. It was a big year. The Vietnam War ended, Sony introduced Betamax video, Muhammad Ali beat Joe Fraser, Microsoft was launched and Whitlam got dismissed and replaced by Fraser. It was also the year that rock climbers discovered Summer Day Valley in the Grampians.  For 44 years since it has been the core of climbing in the region, a place many people were first introduced to the sport by friends, clubs and guides. This climbing history has now literally been torn up as rangers removed PV signage about rock-climbing from the area over the weekend. This included informative panels explaining the history and benefits of climbing.

The possibility of Arapiles climbing bans have suddenly lurched forward much faster than expected – with the announcement overnight of a heritage study to start at Arapiles by Spring this year – according to an ABC Wimmera News article. The article references the “alleged damage to heritage sites and rock faces” in the Grampians as the reason for urgency.

Many climbers have voiced concern about the future of climbing at Arapiles after seeing the dramas unfolding in the Grampians. Could similar bans happen at Arapiles? Is it all connected? Yes and yes. Let’s explain.